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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says a family member, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary honour.